Asheville, NC (the Grey Eagle)
After staying in the mountains of North Carolina for almost a week, Lisa and I got our first taste of the city of Asheville on Monday afternoon. After finding a parking spot, we approached a place called the “CityBakeryCafe”.
“We can quickly check our email and update the blog in there,” I said.
“I don’t know,” said Lisa, “they might not have wireless.”
“Come on,” I continued. “Any place with both “city” and “cafe” in its name must have wireless. If they don’t have wireless, I’ll eat my socks!”
A few moments later, we were three blocks down the street at a place called “The Dripolator” with our laptops out. Lisa was sipping a mango smoothie, and I had a mouth full of cotton. On our way out, we noticed a poster on the door advertising a show at the Grey Eagle, the venue for that evening’s contra dance. It featured a sexy cartoon woman and in bold letters read “Rebels Burlesque: Freak show, Peep show (for the whole family).” I knew from that moment we were in for a good dance.
Unfortunately, my not quite eagle eyes missed the building the first few times, which contributed to us being almost 45 minutes late. Entering the hall put me into a state of awe. The reports I had gotten from the Warren Wilson dance about Mondays in Asheville were that it was “an older crowd”. What I found was that “older” simply meant, “above college age.” I blended right in.
The concert hall was cool–dimly lit, low ceilinged, with a restaurant and bar attached, and plenty of character. Wooden boards lay tightly across the floor, creating a sprung surface for everyone to dance on. It was absolutely packed. Bill Tomczak of the Latter Day Lizards joined up with one of the most well-regarded trios in the area, Goosebone Prophets, to produce incredible music that clearly no one wanted to miss. Additionally, Jamie Sparks made her debut calling the Grey Eagle that night, and many were there to support her. Both band and caller proved themselves worthy of the crowd that danced before them.
The music ended and I found a partner for the next dance. However, when I tried to find a place to line up, I couldn’t see where the sets were forming. Someone saw that I was lost, pulling my partner and I into their set, and I understood why I couldn’t find them for myself. The lines were horizontal in the wider-than-long space.
Like at Warren Wilson, I noticed that the caller did not call many neighbor swings. However, there was a lot of partner interaction, and I found that the Asheville dancers liked to dance very very close. The majority of the time, I swung thigh to thigh with my partners, eyes locked, and foreheads almost touching. I hoped that Lisa wasn’t watching me.
The dance before the break, my partner and I had the standard back and forth as the band tuned up: “What’s your name; where you from; how did you start dancing?” She told me that she learned to dance in New Hampshire from Dudley Laufman, a name I certainly recognised. We were both excited to find each other, and she helped me pick out some how some of the moves that were different in Asheville.
“The left-hand stars are more like left hand piles,” she explained as we danced. “People don’t grab wrists; they all put their hands in the middle. It took me a while to get used to.” I felt like I was reminiscing with someone from “the old country.”
When I told her about the trip, she immediately informed me of the Tuesday night contra dance classes at the Folk School in Brasstown, NC. I had never heard of a contra dance class before, and was excited to look it up when we got back from the dance.
I found the dancers at the Grey Eagle to be more experienced than the Warren Wilson crew, but no less energetic. Sets were literally wall to wall, and each dancer had a flavor all their own. I saw one who must have also danced Latin, tango, and swing, judging from the way he deftly led his partner.
I danced with Adina, the caller from Winston-Salem, and did another back-to-back waltz with Lisa’s and my friend from Warren Wilson. The Grey Eagle dance was the perfect end to our dancing in the Asheville area. From here, we head south to Georgia, but we’ll be back for dancing in Brasstown.
-Celo, NC
March 9th, 2007 at 1:11 pm
Great fun reading your stuff. So when are you guys gonna learn to be on time?
March 10th, 2007 at 6:47 pm
well..i guess i’ll leave a comment posted here since the last portion of your trip is not blogged yet.
I’m so glad that i got to meet up with both of you and become a part of your journey across america…footloose and fancy free and following all the contra dances! i wish i could have gone to more and i will definately look up some other locations so i can drag all my friends along with me and get to be as good as you guys. maybe next time you see me i’ll get all the steps right…even the crazy eight one! it was a blast and i hope that i will be able to come and visit you in some of the locations you decide to stay in for longer than a week. best of luck to you and have a happy, safe drive.
i hope i get to hear from both of you again soon!
love
sara
March 17th, 2007 at 12:58 am
how did you like the tues nite dance at the folkschool???
i was the fiddler that nite with the pianist
mike R
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